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no vapor barrier in garage slab
AC's tricks likely would manage any problems. If not, eaves troughs and extended downspouts well away from the building would help as well as improving the drainage or tiling around the building would help if there's still a problem. Figuring out the drainage pattern on part of our place and cutting a 40' swale made a lot of difference to how damp our garage is. Figuring out the drainage pattern is how I knew that water levels are useful in checking between points that don't have a sight line that I mentioned in another thread. The level also told me how deep I had to make the swale.
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no vapor barrier in garage slab
Don't know: I get frost on everything the middle of winter and there's a lot of fog spring and fall. Neither my equipment nor tools rust in the garage or shed. I suppose that's because there's enough oil on them just from use and I spray anything I think will rust and not be used frequently with anti-rust stuff. Well, I do keep my micrometers etc. in the house, and I don't wash the tractor.
Heating a garage would cure the problem but it sure would be expensive around here. A box with a light bulb or small heater in it would work for the tools.
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no vapor barrier in garage slab
Sounds a bit like reverse of an idea I had awhile back but never started. I wanted to make a heat exchanger and reservoir for our well feed. What I wanted is warmer output water so the electric hot water heater wouldn't run so much. I wouldn't want to run drinking water through old rads and they wouldn't take the pressure anyway. I heard that some old-time shiners (or is it mooners?) used them for still condensers--really a bad idea)!
I had a general idea of mounting a bunch of small diameter thin-walled copper pipe between two bases so there'd be enough volume to stay in the pipes awhile and let convection warm it up. Don't know if this passive idea would do much or if more elabourate active ideas would be worth it.
The connection here is that my water heater also would produce condensate and would cool and dehumidify the basement a bit, at least in the summer.
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no vapor barrier in garage slab
Murf: A few people around here have conventional outdoor wood furnaces that work pretty good and both heat the house and hot water. They do have reputations of being wood hogs compared to efficient indoor stoves. We've thought about these things since firewood is cheap and available here. A 24-hour hopper sounds like a good idea. People here are forever taking breaks from do's to go feed the stove. I guess my brother-in-law manages his 14 hour shifts through artful banking of his stove.
The idea I had took off from a friend who has an oil water heater. The burner seemed to click on about every time they turned on the hot water. A plumber installed a holding tank and that seemed to cure the problem. I guess a bigger pressure tank would do the same. I had the notion of trying to increase the efficiency of the holding tank idea mostly be getting more surface to air contact. Using waste heat from a freezer is a more active idea. No air conditioners here or they'd make good sources of waste heat.
I did a bit of looking at waste heat recovery a few years back. The water to water units for potable water use were expensive. I think the issue is how to prevent or at least know if there's internal leakage between the systems--it would be possible to put wastewater into the drinking water if the well pump failed.
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Gas Generator Weather Protecti
09-25-2003, 06:55 
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